MSP "Torque
Buster"
Polyurethane Upper Motor Mounts
Installation
Tools needed:
- ratchet
- 13mm standard socket
- 13mm deep socket
- 14mm standard socket
- 14mm open-end wrench
- bench vise
- keyhole saw (optional)
- telescoping magnet tool (optional but highly recommended)
Introduction: This
installation of the MSP "Torque Buster" Polyurethane Upper Motor
Mounts will be done to the stock motor mount supports located on top of
the radiator cross-member. It is recommended that you remove only one
mount at a time and replace it before removing the second one. This is so
the motor does not move and make the installation hard to do.
* Make sure that your car is parked on a level surface to prevent the motor's
weight to be shifted.
1.) Remove the bolt on the upper round motor mount bushings using a ratchet with the 14mm socket and open-end 14mm wrench. Do the same for the bolt in the square motor mount bushings by the radiator. This bolt is also 14mm. Remove the "dogbone" and set aside. We will NOT be modifying this part of the motor mount.
2.) We will next remove the radiator motor mount bracket. Remove the top two 13mm bolts from the radiator motor mount bracket. Use a deep-socket 13mm socket to remove the two bolts in the lower section (see picture below) and then use the telescoping magnet tool to pull the bolts out so you don't lose them inside the radiator cross-member.
3.) Slide the motor mount bracket straight out towards the front of the engine and take it to your vise.
4.) Turn the motor mount on it's side to expose the stock bushing, and secure it tightly in a vise. Use a towel on the sides to prevent marking up the top of the motor mount.
5.) The "fun" part of this process is the removal of the stock bushing. Once you get past this part, the rest of the installation is extremely simple.
I have found 2 different ways of removing the stock bushing, and it all depends on what you feel like. With some work, you can get the bushing out without ruining it, or if you want an easier conversion, there is an easy 5-minute way, but be warned that the stock bushings will be destroyed.
5a.) Method 1, the non-destroy method:
If you want to keep your
stock bushings, there is a way to get them out without destroying them. Be
forewarned though, it will take a little patience and muscle, and you'll have to
get a little creative. If you notice the picture in step 2 above, you see
the "hump" in the middle of the bracket. Well on the inside of
the bracket, this hump is a "ditch", and the stock rubber bushing has a large
bulge in the entire center of it where it sits in this ditch. So the only
way to get the stock bushing out it to take the longest flathead screwdriver you
have and wedge the tip of it in between the inside of the bracket and the bushing so that you
can expose some of the middle of the bushing. *** Make sure your
bracket is secured in the vise. Generously spray this area
with WD-40 or equivalent penetrating oil. Continue all the way around the
bushing in the same manner, and really lubricate the middle of the bushing. After waiting a few
minutes to let it penetrate, try prying the bushing out with your screwdriver
like you did for the lubricant. You may want to use a second flathead screwdriver and wedge that one
in as you pry with the other. Eventually, you should be able to pry enough
to get one corner of the bushing out. From there, you will be able to pry
the rest out without a problem.
5b.) Method 2, the cutting method:
The easiest method,
is the cutting method. But you will no longer have your stock bushings, so
be forewarned. For about $5, you can go to your local hardware
store, and buy a "Keyhole Saw". See the picture below.
The keyhole saw will have two blades: one for cutting tubing, and one for cutting wood or plastic. We will want to use the blade for cutting wood/plastic. We will want to use the keyhole saw to cut the two main sections of the bushing. Customers have noted that using a soapy water solution on the keyhole saw blade really helps cut through the rubber.
With this section cut, the "core" will come out and you will be able to easily remove the rest of the bushing. See the picture below on where to cut.
BEFORE
AFTER.
